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The Rye Baker: Classic Breads from Europe and America cookbook by Stanley Ginsberg

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Books : Cooking : English
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The Rye
Baker is an utterly beautiful, well-researched treasure of a cookbook on baking rye breads. This book will open up a
whole new world to any reader. I read and own a lot of bread baking books, and I've never seen anything approaching
the level of detail and variety found in Stanley Ginsberg's book. He has clearly done an exceptional amount of
research into the use of rye as an ingredient in baking, both contemporary and historically throughout Europe and the
US. From well-known favorites like Boston Brown Bread and Jewish Bakery Pumpernickel to regional specialties like
Slow-Baked Frisian Rye (Holland), South Tyrolean Christmas Zelten (Italy), Sauerkraut Bread (Germany), Normandy Apple
Cider Rye (France), Riga Rye (Latvia), Ginger-Plum Bread (Germany) and Yogurt Rye (Poland), this book explores the
stunning variety of breads made with rye.

Importantly, all of the recipes and explanations are accompanied by
measurements in grams, ounces, volume, and baker's percentages. The handful of comparisons I've made while
starting to bake from this book indicate that the conversions are correctly done between weights and volumes.

This book starts with an brief introduction to how this book came into being, the history of rye in agriculture and
food, a very comprehensive section on ingredients, including US-Europe flour equivalencies and a breakdown of their
protein and moisture content. This section is packed with concise but key information on the roles of salt, sweeteners,
spices and herbs, leavening, yeast, liquids, and other mix-ins like fruits and seeds. This section also walks you
through starting and maintaining a rye sourdough culture.

Following the introduction, there's an
in-depth chapter on understanding the terminology and techniques used in these recipes - "Nine steps to great rye
bread". This section covers things like why and how different types of preferments are used, the importance of
accurate measurements and scaling, benching the dough, etc. Even if you are an experienced baker, this section contains
lots of interesting details about how baking with rye works and the rationale behind some of the different
techniques.

An equipment section follows the "Nine steps", and again, Stanley goes into a lot of
detail about the roles of specific equipment (like proofing baskets, steam pans, and baking stones) in turning out a
great loaf of rye bread. This chapter concludes with a short section on cooling and storage.

The recipes
themselves are split into Immigrant Bread (America), the Essential Loaf (France and Spain), Robust and Complex (Holland,
Denmark, and Northern Germany), Sweet and Crisp (Sweden, Finland, and Iceland), Aromatic and Flavorful (Bavaria,
Switzerland, Austria, and Italy), Dark and Intense (Russia and the Baltics), Tender and Piquant (Southern Poland), and
Rich and Varied (Central and Southwestern Germany).

While a lot of the recipes make use of a starter or
preferment, there are plenty of recipes that look delicious and take very little advance notice. I just got this tonight
and my loaf of Spiced Honey Rye (France) is already cooled and ready to eat. It smells and tastes utterly amazing. If I
were to bookmark all the recipes I want to make from this book, I would flag almost every page. There's so much
knowledge and diversity of rye-based recipes in here, this bread book will be a great resource for anyone (home baker or
professional) who enjoys baking bread.

- Kat L, Amazon.com

Kudos to Stanley Ginsberg for writing
the first and only English-language book on rye baking. I was looking forward to the publication of this book as I
wanted to learn how to make rye bread. Rye bread is much harder to make than wheat bread. Much of that is due to the
nature of the rye flour itself. So any critique of Ginsberg book must take into account that rye bread can be difficult
to make. That said, I do have some issues with his book.

I think some of the volume measures are not
compatible with the weight measures.

A good rye sour culture is key to making almost all the breads in this
book. For weeks, I struggle to create a successful culture. I finally did some research on such cultures and found that
chlorinated tap water can hamper or even kill a sourdough culture. Once I started using bottled spring water, my rye
sour culture took off. I think that the author should have mentioned using non-chlorinated water in the rye sour culture
recipe. It certainly could have saved me several weeks of frustration.

I wish Ginsberg had addressed dough
spread during the proofing process and how to counter it. I found no mention of using bannetons or brotforms or any
other process/device to counter this problem.

Another disappointment was better guidance on how to obtain
powdered rye malt, a necessary ingredient in many Russian breads. I checked many a brewing supply site on the internet
and could find none. If Ginsberg has found a source for powdered rye malt, he should offer it on his NYbakers site.

Being first in any endeavor is always daunting. The first anything. be it refrigerator, car or book. is always
subject to gobs of criticism. There is always someone who says how it could have been done better. The Rye Baker is the
best resource on rye bread now available. It's a classic. The second edition will be even better.

-
Brunick, Amazon.com   Show Demonoid some love with  BitCoin: 1DNoid2VRyfYn9T38Z1SZ5XncG7WMgCeUL How to get BitCoin?   

        
  

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